Planning Travel with Dogs

Abby

Abby in the woods

When we set off on round-the-world adventure in September 2009, we didn't have much in the way of plans.  We had a plane ticket into Australia and a few locations mapped out but, for the most part, we didn't worry too much.  We booked hostels last minute and flights with days to spare.  On more than one occasion, we scored last minute tour deals when the tours needed two people to fill empty spots.  That was then.

Now, as we get ready to head to Europe in less than 60 (!) days, I've been planning like crazy.  I know exactly where we are going and staying for the first four months of our trip.  I have researched ferries, trains, and overland transportation extensively.  I've probably put 80 to 100 hours of time into figuring out what we are going to be doing over the next year.

Why the difference?  Chewy and Abby, of course.  Planning travel with pets is much more . . . shall we say challenging to avoid any foul-mouthed asterisks . . . than without them.  Some of these challenges include:

Entering England from the United States

In order to take the dogs to Europe, we started preparing their vaccinations and paperwork over eight months ago.  We have been to the vet over four times in the last six months to ensure that all of the paperwork is properly filled out.  And, three days ago, I found out that all of our paperwork needs to be printed in BLUE ink rather than BLACK ink so I had to go back to my vet yesterday to have him re-sign their rabies vaccination certification.  It's been a headache to say the least.  (I'm going to do a full post on this whole process at a later point once we've got the entire thing completely finalized.)

European itinerary

Our planned route

DEFRA vs. Schengen

Once we enter Europe, we run into other difficulties.  The Schengen agreement is a pact between 25 primarily western European countries which allows free borderless entry into those countries.  Unfortunately, American passport holders may only stay in the Schengen zone for 90 days at a time and then we have to leave the Schengen area for an additional 90 days before returning.  Most backpackers in Europe solve this problem by heading to the UK (which is not in the Schengen zone), eastern Europe, northern Africa, or the Middle East to avoid the Schengen issues.

We don't have all those options because Chewy and Abby have their own visa limitations.  Under the UK's DEFRA guidelines which we must follow because we need to reenter the UK in order to take our cruise back to the United States, Chewy and Abby can only visit certain countries listed in the DEFRA documentation.  If they go outside that list, they will be placed in quarantine for six months.  We certainly aren't going to let that happen.

The problem: the DEFRA approved list and the Schengen zone list almost identically mirror each other.  There are only six countries that are on the DEFRA list and not in the Schengen zone: the UK, Ireland, Croatia, Bosnia, Bulgaria, and Romania.  So, our plan is to land in the UK, spend one month in England, 3 months in the Schengen zone, 3 months in Croatia and Bosnia, 3 months in the Schengen zone, and 3 months in the UK and Ireland.  But, we have to be very careful not to drive through any of the non-DEFRA approved countries (such as Serbia or Montenegro).

Abby and Chewy at a forest

Walking with the dogs

Transportation

Most people who travel through Europe use public transportation, including the popular train system.  We aren't going to be using much public transportation because many of the trains don't allow dogs.  (Though, actually, the British Rail Network allows dogs on all their trains as long as they are on a leash.)  We also decided that it might be a bit difficult to manage our luggage and the dogs using only public transportation.

So, we're shipping our car over to Europe.  We considered renting a car for the entire 13 months but the price was an astronomical $20,000 USD (including insurance), for which price we could have bought a new car.  Shipping our car will run us around $5,000 for the year (including insurance).  But, man, figuring out how to ship a car to Europe is quite a headache.  We're *almost* at the end of the process because we're driving our car to the Charleston Port on Friday to send it on its way. 

And, the car also has country restrictions.  In general, tourists are allowed to ship a car and keep them in the European Union for 6 months without paying any taxes or duties, as long as you do not plan to dispose of the car in the EU.  In order for us to keep the car in the EU for 13 months, I had to make a special request to the government.  (Lots more info on all of this later, I promise, once we have everything finalized.)

Occasionally, we are going to need to use ferries, such as when we travel from England to Spain, so I have also spent a great deal of time researching the pet-friendly ferry options.  Some are truly awful and one requires your dog to stay in the car for 7-8 hours at a time, while others are really pet-friendly such as the one we're taking that even has pet-friendly cabins.

Chewy with burger

Not for Chewy

Pet Food

Chewy has a tendency to get a bit chubby so about three years ago, we switched him to a high-protein, no-grain diet, with the pet food Wellness CORE.  Wellness CORE worked wonders for Chewy --- in a year, he was down from a hefty 51 pounds to a sleek 38.  His reduced weight has improved his arthritis and degenerative joint disease and most people are surprised to hear that he's ten years old because he romps about like he's half that age.  (Knock on wood.) 

But, Wellness CORE is not sold in Europe.  Darn.  Originally, we considered just bringing several large bags of it from the U.S. to the EU and storing it in a cargo top container, but England has strict restrictions on the amount of meat products, including dog food, that can enter the country.  An individual may only bring 2 kg of any meat product into the country, so that option was out.

Then, we started researching alternatives and found Orijen, another natural foods brand that is high-protein and no-grain.  Unfortunately, Orijen does not have a weight-maintenance variety but we're hoping that the weight will stay off with it.  It looks like Orijen is widely available in all of the countries that we'll be traveling in.

(And, if you're wondering about Abby, Abby likes us to change her food brand every month, so I have a feeling that she will be ecstatic with all the new options in Europe.)

Pet-friendly Accommodation

I've been stalking HomeAway, Homelidays, and VRBO for the last month to find accommodations that meet all of our requirements.  When Patrick and I travel by ourselves, we require that our accommodation be:

  • clean
  • in a safe area
  • and with fast WiFi

For Europe, we want places that:

  • accept two medium-sized dogs (not an easy condition to find)
  • have a small garden/yard or is located near a park
  • is on the ground floor (or has a lift)
  • is in a convenient and safe location so we can return during the day and check on them
  • is clean
  • has good WiFi (though we're willing to let this one go and use our MiFi instead)
  • has a garage or nearby place where we can park our car

As you can imagine, it's been harder to find places to stay in Europe.  And, though many hotels and vacation rentals are pet-friendly, we don't feel that we can just arrive in a town and hope to find a pet-friendly motel.  (In the U.S., it's a bit easier because certain chains such as Holiday Inn and Red Roof Inn are all pet-friendly.  Some of the expensive chains in Europe always accept pets but there is usually a small dog size limitation which doesn't work for us.)

BUT . . . .

I keep telling myself that despite all of these annoyances, complications, and hassles, it is all going to be worth it to see Europe with our babies.  54 days before we head to England!

06/02/2011 02:05
That is some serious dedication you're showing to your dogs! I am really amazed by it :)
06/06/2011 16:31
They deserve it for putting up with our craziness, right?
Akila's recent blog post: Planning Travel with Dogs
06/02/2011 06:34
In Ios (Greece), "Far Out Beach Club" is dog friendly. I know, because there was an older couple camping near my dorm with 2 doggies. You can even take your dogs into the bar/restaurant. Everyones cool with it.
Ian [EagerExistence]'s recent blog post: First Impressions of Turkey
06/06/2011 16:33
Ian - Thanks so much for the tip! If we make it to Greece, we'll definitely have to check it out.
Akila's recent blog post: Planning Travel with Dogs
06/02/2011 16:20
Wow... so many details to keep track of! The quarantine issue is scary - one accidental stop-over or mix-up and the pups are whisked away for months. That is a huge incentive to have everything thoroughly figured out ahead of time.
Christy @ Technosyncratic's recent blog post: Photo Essay: The Oregon Coast
06/06/2011 16:34
Exactly! We figure that it's a bit of a hassle now but not having them in quarantine means that it's something we MUST figure out beforehand. And, to be honest, there are advantages to planning out our trip, too, like getting good deals and organizing ourselves better so that we get the best accommodations.
Akila's recent blog post: Planning Travel with Dogs
06/11/2011 16:03
Excellent post - I've often wondered whether I should consider taking my Beowulf on a long trip... living in France near the Swiss border means I'm spoiled - we can take dogs into restaurants, on public transport - pretty much anywhere other than the supermarket. You'll see dogs in malls, departments stores, beaches - pretty much everywhere. Still, your post makes it seem at least possible, so thank you!
Leyla's recent blog post: Volunteering Abroad As A Woman
06/30/2011 12:46
I think it's worth doing - as long as you're up for some planning! We've found that we tend to relax a lot more when we have our dogs with us while traveling because we get treated like "locals" and take more time to just walk around and explore neighborhoods and cafes. We do less things but we enjoy more of the city. I love that in France you can take dogs pretty much anywhere - we can't wait to visit the country for that reason! :)
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07/28/2011 19:46
Really, really, love the design of the new site!
I don't envy your planning of this trip, but I'm sure it's going to be fantastic!
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09/05/2011 08:42
Thanks so much Kristina! We love our designer - Lauren at Designer Blogs is fantastic! :)
08/12/2011 08:43
Hi,

I really enjoyed this blog post, I'd never appreciated the level of effort our international customers must go through in order to travel with their dogs. The sheer amount of research and preparation needed makes it very prohibitive, which is a real shame. I wonder if its becoming any easier or more difficult over time?

It also makes me wonder how many people are aware of all of these regulations and the "games" you have to play to fit within the rules.

A great and very useful blog post.

Tom
08/16/2011 19:46
Wow! I am fascinated and will be your newest follower! We travel in an RV with our two bichons...but we have not yet ventured outside of the US. I look forward to reading all about your adventures!! I commend your dedication to your furkids!! Jeanne with Chloe and LadyBug
09/05/2011 08:39
Jeanne, thanks so much! We're loving traveling in Europe with our dogs so far . . . and RVing might just be on our list of things to try. :)
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09/07/2011 13:26
Akila, we're bypassing England entirely because of their dog policy. I did have my dog's blood test done for Ireland in case we decide to head there as a Schengen out from anywhere in NW Europe. That was expensive (more than $300 for the blood test, which had to be couriered from Vancouver to a gov't lab in the US), and I don't even know if we'll need it. We encountered no problems driving from Italy (through Serbia & Bulgaria) to Turkey.
09/27/2011 15:45
Ah ha! So that's how you're doing it. Now, I get it. And, if you drive through Serbia and Bulgaria, then you are still in the EU. I wish we had been able to bypass England simply because of the issues --- but, hopefully, things will be better post-January 2012 when the new DEFRA rules take effect.
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12/28/2011 05:39
Susan
Ah! I'm so excited that I found your site tonight and I think that I have read through everything already. I am planning a trip to Europe (mainly England and France) for at least 12 months, leaving in 2-4 months timeframe, along with my Chihuahua Henry. Obviously, traveling with a little guy is much easier but still complicated (no air routes into the UK permit in-cabin pets!). I am super intrigued about the Queen Mary 2 crossing (I wasn't even aware it was an option) but at this point, it sounds like its too late to get a reservation with the high demand. (At least I have already determined that I have the option of flying Henry into France in-cabin and then doing a ferry or chunnel crossing to England.) At first, I was thinking of spending my time in cities and using public transportation due to Henry's size, but it is still so difficult traveling with him and the luggage, especially as a single! So now, I am leaning doing what you are doing and staying more rural and being car based. I am eagerly awaiting your post on how you managed to ship your car (and get it insured!).
01/05/2012 11:20
Susan, How wonderful! And what a wonderful wonderful trip.

I hope that you won't feel like I'm bombarding you with information, but here goes on some posts and things to read:

On shipping a car to Europe and car insurance: http://www.theroadforks.com/worldtrip/england/how_to_ship_your_car_to_europe

On bringing your dog by plane to Europe (by a friend's site): http://ramblecrunch.com/2011/11/flying-dog-to-europe/

On the QM2, I would suggest calling them because, right now, people have to pay their final fees for the trips that are three months from now and we were told that some people cancel their trips about two months before. One of the women on our trip booked only 50 days before our journey. So give them a call - it can't hurt!

Now, if you are flying into Paris and then taking the Eurotunnel up, you will need to have a car to take the tunnel. Unfortunately, the Eurorail doesn't allow dogs. And I'm not sure if the ferries allow dogs if you're a foot passenger.

Either way, if you're flying into Paris, check out http://www.dogjaunt.com who has a lot of fantastic information about traveling with pets in Paris. (She also does in-depth review of airport pet areas which is super handy for pet owners.) This is also a great resource on pets in Paris: http://www.secretsofparis.com/pets-in-paris/

About the city versus country issue, England is absolutely beautiful. The countryside is just stunning with tons of gardens, amazing walks, and beautiful castles. Dogs are welcome at pubs in the country most accommodations are pet-friendly. That being said, it's quite cold and gloomy most of the year and we've noticed that Chewy's arthritis is especially bad here, so if your dog suffers in the cold weather (and I know that many chihuahuas do), that might be a reason to avoid England in the winter. If you are in the English countryside, you will absolutely need a car. We're in London right now, though, and we're staying in Greenwich, a bit outside the main city center. Tons of great parks, lots of dogs, and there's free off-street parking. It takes about an hour to get into the center city but we don't go in every single day.

France's countryside is also stunning and we've loved the time we spent there. Dogs are an integral part of the culture there and they're accepted pretty much everywhere. I would also strongly encourage spending time in Italy. The Italians love their dogs and it's a very very pet-friendly country. We found the same to be true in Spain. The place we stayed in Madrid was right across from two off-leash dog parks and our dogs got so many pets and loves when we took them to Parc Guell in Barcelona. I'm going to be very shortly writing a post about the Brittany Ferries cruise from England to Spain which actually has pet-friendly cabins - very comfortable and nice (though a bit pricey)!

Let me know if you have more questions as you go along because we know lots and lots about traveling in Europe with pets now!
01/05/2012 15:49
Susan
Akila, you are so awesome! A lot of information is my kind of style. (PS, I'm a lawyer too so I think it's in our nature.) In the few days before your response, I did locate your posts on car shipping and have done a lot of legwork on it myself. I'm leaning strongly toward taking my car (the only hesitation that I have is that if I can find a job in London, I would like to relocate there permanently if possible...I'm blessed with dual US/Ireland citizenship through my lovely Dublin-born mother so I have no immigration/work visa issues...but then I'm stuck with a car that is not the best for a left-driving country.) I've actually gotten a couple of quotes from other auto shippers willing to work with me so it will be interesting to see if I use another company besides Schumacher what my experience is like. I also located the Dog Jaunt website and it is great. Will check out your friend's site now too. Finally, I also called Cunard and they indicated that there is a waiting list 8-9 deep for most of the May/June/July sailings but encouraged me to get on waiting list for August or later. Even though I intend to fly over myself without Henry for a little while to do some traveling to east Europe, that is probably a little late for me. I will see though and maybe put in a reservation for a May crossing just in case. There could be a lot of people who don't want it because they made alternative plans. Even though Henry is a good airplane traveler and I could get to Paris easily from East Coast, the idea of the QM2 is appealing to me for some reason. For not that much more than a flight, I could get a vacation out of it with good meals AND bring as much luggage as I want!
01/05/2012 15:54
Susan
Oh, and one more thing. I have gone to town on my researching a variety of issues related to this adventure since my situation is somewhat different (I have EU citizenship, I may end up there longer than you, I have medical issues that need monitoring, etc.) and I needed to verify a lot of different things so I did a lot of primary research (which your research was invaluable to point the way to). If you haven't done it already, I even looked into and summarized all the requirements for bringing your pets back into the US as well as US customs issues upon the return. Let me know if you want any of it and I can send it to you.
08/30/2012 06:07
If you ever come to Duesseldorf, Germany, I will gladly help you with anything you need.
04/27/2013 05:35
Aimee
Hi there, I live in Switzerland and am planning to travel to Montenegro with my pet Oreo (a border collie mix). Do you think I'll have problems re-entering Switzerland because of the quarentine issue when I come back with him?

Thanks for the advise!

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Akila writes. Patrick takes photos. Chewy eats. Abby runs. We live, love, and travel in this world.
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Chewy turns ten and we celebrate with a walk on the red carpet.
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